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Barnett Kevlar Complete Clutch Kit
Since 1948, Barnett clutch plates and springs have been made from the finest materials available. Through research and development, we are constantly striving to offer the best possible friction material for your motorcycle or ATV. Barnett tempered steel drive plates go through a vibratory deburring process and then are quality checked for flatness to provide optimum performance. Heavy duty Barnett clutch springs are pre-set, shot-peened, and heat treated for performance and durability.
- Kevlar plates have higher density compound for increased durability
- Barnett tempered steel drive plates go through a vibratory deburring process and then are quality checked for flatness to provide optimum performance.
- Barnett clutch springs are pre-set, shot-peened, and heat treated for performance and durability
- Includes proper number of friction plates, steel plates and springs for your application, regardless of image shown
|Country of Origin||USA|
Fitment is guaranteed or your money back plus free return shipping. Don't waste time installing a product that doesn't fit. We worked hard ensuring that this product is an exact fit on the vehicles listed below.
- VRSCA V-Rod 2002-2006
- ATC250R 1985-1986
- CBR929RR 2000-2001
- CBR954RR 2002-2003
- CR250R 1984-1989
- CR480R 1983
- CR500R 1984-1989
- NX650 Dominator 1988-1989
- TRX250X FourTrax 250X 1991-1992
- TRX300EX FourTrax 300EX 1993-2000, 2004-2007
- TRX300EX Sportrax 300EX 2001-2003, 2008
- TRX300X Sportrax 300X 2009
- VT600C Shadow 600 VLX 1991-2007
- VT600CD2 Shadow 600 VLX Deluxe 1999-2000
- VT600CD Shadow 600 VLX Deluxe 1993-2007
- VT1100C Shadow 1100 1995-1996
- VTR1000F Super Hawk 1998-2005
- XR250L 1991-1996
- XR250R 1986-1995
- XR350R 1983-1985
- XR600R 1985-2000
- XR650L 1993-2012
- 85 SX 2004
- 85 SX 17/14 2005-2012
- 85 SX 19/16 2005-2012
- 85 XC 2008-2009
- 105 SX 2006-2011
- 350 SX-F 2011-2012
- 350 XC-F 2011-2012
- EX650A Ninja 650R 2006-2008
- KFX400 2005-2006
- KLE650A Versys 650 2008-2010
- KX80 1988-1997
- DR350 1994-1998
- DR350S 1993-1998
- GSF1200S Bandit 1200 S 1997-2005
- GSX-R750 1996-1999
- LT250R QuadRacer 250 1987-1992
- LT-Z400 QuadSport 400 2005-2012
- RM250 1986-1991, 1994
- RMX250 1989-1991, 1994-1998
- SV650 1999-2002
- TL1000R 1998-2000
- TL1000S 1999-2000
- Thruxton 2004-2012
- TT-R125 2000-2005
- WR426F 2001-2002
- YFM350FW Big Bear 350 4x4 1997-1999
- YFM350FX Wolverine 350 4x4 1995-2005
- YZ426F 2001-2002
Questions & Answers
Synthetic Motorcycle oil
I use Amsoil Synthetic Metric Motorcycle oil in my bike, will that be an issue these parts?
So long as it's a motorcycle-specific type of oil that you're using, regardless as to whether it's conventional, semi or a full-synthetic type - you should have no problem using that oil with this, or any other motorcycle clutch components we sell. Basically, you want to avoid any type of engine oil with friction modifiers in it as that's what causes problems with clutch components that share the same oil with the rest of the engine. In the case of motorcycle-specific oils, those types of compounds are not included in them, so you shouldn't have any problem with your chosen Amsoil.
I put my 2003 V-Rod in first and second gear and my V-Rod don't go no faster than 10 miles an hour what's wrong
It sounds as though your clutch is slipping quite a bit. Consequently, no matter what gear you put it in, the clutch is far too worn out to provide the correct drive. This would be especially true if this matter has been getting progressively worse.
If this is the case, we can say with a high degree of confidence that it's a worn out V-Rod clutch that's causing this problem. By properly installing this complete Barnett V-Rod clutch kit along with the springs that are included, you should get back your bike's full running potential.
Going from first to second in my 97 xr650l it grinds the gears or just goes into nuetral also shifting seems to be pretty noisy and rough as well would installing a new clutch fix this issue?
It could be as simply as a clutch adjustment, as the clutch may not be fully disengaging to make the shift. You should start off by having the clutch adjusted properly then test riding to see if it takes care of the issue. You would also want to ensure that your clutch cable is in good condition. From there, perhaps change the oil to see if there is a significant amount of metal floating around in the engine/ If so, that would point to a transmission type of problem that you'd need to get into the motor to examine. Whatever you do, make sure you use a motorcycle-specific type of oil!
During the oil change, have a look at the clutch pack. If the steel separator plates show a significant degree of wear (eg. black spots or discoloration) or the fibers are rather thin, then you'd want to replace that as well. From what you're experiencing, there should be a definite sign of a problem once you start inspecting these items.